Orchids are exotic, vibrantly colored flowers that many people love for their unique beauty and fascinating shapes.
While they have a reputation for being difficult to grow, with the right care and conditions, it’s entirely possible to cultivate healthy, blooming orchid plants right in your own home.
This in-depth guide will coach you through every stage of orchid maintenance so you may enjoy these exquisite flowering plants in your indoor area if you have always wanted to try growing orchids inside.
What Are Orchid Plants?
Orchids are part of the Orchidaceae family, which is one of the largest families of flowering plants in the world. There are an estimated 25,000-30,000 different orchid species!
While orchids come in hundreds of varieties, colors, shapes, and sizes, they all share some common characteristics.
Orchids have bilateral symmetry, meaning their flowers develop equally on both sides of a central stem. They lack any true roots, stems, leaves, or vascular tissue.
Instead, they consist of leathery, alternating leaves atop thick green aerial roots.
Most orchids are epiphytic, which means in their natural tropical habitat they grow on other plants or trees and derive nutrients and moisture from the surrounding air, rain, and decaying matter – not from soil.
This becomes important when growing orchids at home, as they have slightly different care requirements than many other common houseplants. With that background info out of the way, let’s get into the steps for successfully growing orchids indoors.
Choosing the Right Orchid
For novice orchid growers, it’s best to start with one of the easier, more beginner-friendly varieties that can adapt well to indoor conditions. Here are some of the most popular and common orchid varieties to grow as houseplants:
Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid)
Dendrobium
Oncidium
Paphiopedilum (Lady’s Slipper)
Miltonia
Brassia
Your local nursery or garden center is a great place to select a healthy orchid plant to take home. Look for orchids with bright green upright leaves, lots of thick roots, a strong stem, and visible flower spikes or buds.
Potting Mix and Containers
One of the keys to keeping orchids happy is using the right type of potting mix. Regular potting soil is too dense and moisture-retaining for orchids’ needs. Instead, use an orchid potting mix made from coarse bark, perlite, charcoal, and moss. This fast-draining, airy mix mimics the epiphytic environment orchids naturally grow in.
Orchids are usually sold in plastic pots with good drainage holes. When repotting, choose a pot only 1-2 inches wider than the orchid’s root mass. Orchids do best when their roots are just slightly constricted. Terra cotta or wooden orchid baskets also work well to allow the roots to receive ample air flow.
Light Requirements
Orchids need plenty of bright, indirect light to produce lush foliage and ample blooms. An east or west-facing window is ideal. A southern exposure may provide too much hot, direct sunlight.
Sheer curtains can help diffuse intense sunlight. Orchids also can be successful under LED or fluorescent grow lights if you lack sufficient natural light in your home.
Watering
As epiphytes, orchids have adapted to rapidly absorb water when it’s available, then go through periods of dryness. They are very prone to root and crown rot in overly damp conditions. The #1 cause of orchid death is overwatering!
Only water orchids when the potting mix becomes dry about 1-2 inches down. Then, water thoroughly by submerging the entire pot and letting excess moisture drain out the bottom. Many orchid growers also mist the leaves and roots weekly to increase humidity.
The frequency of watering will vary based on your home’s conditions, but typically orchids need to be watered every 5-12 days. It’s better to underwater than overwater. Always err on the side of letting orchids dry out slightly between waterings.
Temperature and Humidity
The two most important environmental factors for orchids are temperature and humidity. Orchids perform best in warm (65-80°F), humid conditions that mimic their native tropical environments.
Most homes are quite dry, so you may need to supplement humidity levels. An inexpensive humidifier placed near the orchids is ideal. Other options are humidity trays filled with pebbles and water under the pots or grouping orchids together.
Avoid placing orchids in drafty areas or near air vents, fireplaces, or other sources of hot air. Fluctuations in temps and humidity will stress them out. Also avoid crowding orchids up against walls or windows that may become very hot or very cold depending on the season.
Fertilizing Orchids
Orchids are not heavy feeders, but do benefit from regular, light fertilizing to replace nutrients in their soil-less potting mix. Feed actively growing orchids once a month during spring and summer with a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer diluted to half strength.
Most experts suggest using an orchid fertilizer formula of 20-10-20 or similar balanced ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. You may need to fertilize less or not at all when orchids are not actively growing in winter. Signs an orchid needs fertilizer are lighter green leaves and slower growth.
Repotting Orchids
With their specialized growing needs, it’s best to repot orchids separately from other houseplants. The ideal time to repot most orchid varieties is every 2-3 years in spring after blooming. This prevents them from becoming rootbound and maintains a balance of moisture and air flow in the potting mix.
Gently remove the orchid from its current pot, shake off spent potting mix from the roots, and cut off any dead, dried up roots. Then place the orchid in a clean pot filled with fresh, dry orchid potting mix. Settling the plant at the same level it was previously growing. Water thoroughly after repotting.
Orchid Reblooming
Getting an orchid to rebloom annually is often the trickiest part of orchid growing. Most orchids only flower once per year if conditions are ideal. After blooms fall, the plant rests until its seasonal blooming cycle starts again.
To encourage future blooms, provide the orchid with a slight temperature drop of about 10°F for 1-2 months, ample light, slight dryness between waterings, and consistent fertilization. If the growing conditions are right, flower spikes should begin emerging 5-9 months after the last blooming period.
Potential Pests and Diseases
Orchids can be susceptible to a few common pests and diseases, typically caused by improper cultural conditions. Some problems to watch out for:
- Crown rot – decay at the base of leaves from overwatering
- Root rot – black, mushy roots from soggy potting mix
- Spider mites – tiny red pests causing webbing on the underside of leaves
- Fungus gnats – flying pests that breed in damp soil
- Leaf spots – fungal infections leading to damaging leaf marks
Avoid these issues by watering properly, cleaning up plant debris, quarantining new orchids before introducing them to your indoor collection, and using an insecticidal soap or fungicide if needed.
With the right light, temperatures, humidity levels, and care – orchids can thrive indoors as houseplants and reward you with reblooming beauty for years! It just takes a bit of special attention to meet their unique needs. Before you know it, you’ll be an expert orchid grower!
